
定制男装品牌创办人Ian Fong 独家探索 萨维尔街最传统的Huntsman裁缝店 西装是一个男人最难驾驭得尽善尽美的配搭之一。
任你去问任何一个设计师,他们都会告诉你,要做出一套完美的西装,可以花上你一生的时间来钻研。每个接缝、细节都必须完美,加上合适的剪裁能让一个男人看起来自信干练、犹如詹士邦化身;也能让他看起来像个漫无目的的蠢蛋。所以,有品味的男人愿意远赴世界上最优秀的裁缝店,简直是毫无悬念的事。而说到最好的古老裁缝店,则非西装圣地萨维尔街(Savile Row)的Huntsman莫属了。
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最近,定制男装品牌CUFFS创办人Ian Fong远卦伦敦参加有份提名最佳新零售概念奖的WGSN’s Future Awards颁奖礼。虽然铩羽而归,Ian表示这个经验非常宝贵。「我觉得我们好像代表了香港的定制服装界,而且能认识到来自20多个国家、热爱时装的人,真的非常高兴。」
人在英国,Ian绝对不会错过参观萨维尔街─传统英式裁缝业的发源地的机会,一探这些传统是如何被带到香港发展起来的。所以,他带着奇华蛋卷走进了Huntsman,与联合首席剪裁师Dario Carnera谈起了定制服装业。「原来伦敦的时装学院会把毕业生送到萨维尔街,而年轻人都对定制商品很感兴趣。可是,香港的优质裁缝传统正逐渐式微。行业没有迎来新血,现在超过九成的西装是被送到内地制作的。」 Ian 如是说。