The Spring/Summer 2019 Fashion Week editions saw New York, London, Paris and Milan provide a host of both intrigue and inspiration. From the iconic houses to the newest ones-to-watch, an international design contingent brought much-anticipated debuts, fashionably late runway start times and elaborate staging spectacles, that continued to reinforce the industry’s reputation as a global force for cutting-edge creativity.
Today, we invite Trendstop’s team of experts to share the must-see Fashion Week moments from Spring/Summer 2019’s biggest shows, as well as analysing the season’s key colours and influences for the apparel, footwear and accessories markets. You will be inspired by the latest themes, silhouettes and styling trends that will prove essential for your next womenswear collection.
A debut collection from newly appointed Chief Creative Officer, Ricardo Tisci and a logo rebrand ensured Burberry hit the headlines in London. Returning to its roots with a muted palette and hints of classic Burberry check, Tisci then put his own stamp on the proceedings with reinterpreted trench silhouettes and rich embellishments. To Milan and Dolce & Gabbana who celebrated the house’s DNA with star turns from long-time muses and members of their ‘fashion family’ including Isabella Rossellini and former First Lady of France, Carla Bruni. The collection was full of the Sicilian romance, souvenir prints and blousy floral signatures so beloved by the brand. Maria Grazia Chiuri spelt out her vision for Dior through the medium of dance. The Hippodrome de Longchamp in Paris was transformed into a pitch-black space scattered with petals and populated by dancers twirling amongst the models. An abundance of ballet references including full chiffon skirts and ribbon tied pumps, exuded an elegant and graceful sense of femininity. But it was perhaps Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld who stole the show in Paris, installing a full-scale beach at the Grand Palais des Champs-Élysées. Real waves lapped over a sandy shore dotted with beach huts and a jetty while the oversized silhouettes and sorbet shades encapsulated the laid-back high-summer vibe.
Classics and cores are reinterpreted for the summer season as the heat of the desert inspires a warming palette full of reddened undertones and sun-blanched hues. The heated intensity of terracotta, scorched clay and earthenware browns is cooled by the addition of sandy neutrals with cooler cast, greyed-out undertones and black volcanic sand offering a contemporary update. For fashion and accent tones, bright colours have been making a comeback over the last few seasons, taking a direct influence from the recent focus on neons. Developing an organic finish, neon-inspired brights evolve with a softer and chalkier cast for a more wearable approach. Acid shades are muted while retaining their intensity and depth of colour, especially when worn as a single, solid tone.
Trend takeaway: Warming up classic neutrals adapts them for summer while still retaining transseasonal qualities. Chalky finishes soften harsh brights for increased wearability.
Spring Summer 2019 saw designers hit the beach as surf culture became a key influencer of the ongoing athleisure trend. Sportsmax’s rash vests and board shorts kept performance in mind. Etro focused on a laid-back Cali vibe and lightweight layering expanded the look to incorporate elements of transseasonal dressing. Toga’s oversized, nylon totes and the trekker sandals and scuba boots, seen across the collections, infused footwear and bags with a sporty practicality while branded surf boards were the must-have accessory at Emporio Armani’s co-ed show.
Trend takeaway: Designers must widen the arenas of inspiration to continue to develop the hugely popular sportswear trend and upgrade performance aspects.
Themes of far flung travel and an escapist mood informed many of the season’s collections with barren desert landscapes inspiring blanched surfaces and a heated colour palette updating classic cargo styles. Stella McCartney put a clean-lined, feminine spin on utility wear for summer while GCDS’ pared back, sand-toned hiker hybrid offered a fresh iteration of the hugely influential outdoor boot trend. The minimalist styling and silhouettes at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Loewe kept the focus on the sun -drenched colour palette and the use of premium fabrications used to upgrade the functional cargo aesthetic.
Trend takeaway: Tapping into consumer desire for escapist destinations allows designers to elevate and refine utilitarian styles while maintaining their functionality.
Trendstop is a trend forecasting agency and consultancy with the finger on the pulse and an eye firmly to the future. With Trendstop’s trend forecasts, designers have the fundamental tools to build a collection that is not just conceptual, but carries the right elements to attract buyers’ attention and make a new label commercially viable.
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