FromClothingOf designer Shirley Wong played with deconstruction and featured irregular cuts and half-finished pieces in her collection. She brought a new meaning to power dressing by combining lightweight suiting fabrics and cotton with mesh and silk organza to create a series of layered dresses, including a trench-coat style. Clever cutting and styling tricks including belts ensured that the silhouettes were feminine and flattering.
Tibetan architecture was the starting point for Yannes Wong’s collection for Lapeewee. She said that many of her rich textures and decorative details were taken from Tibetan robes, but the final looks were understated save for a few exotic motifs printed on dresses, blouse sleeves and skirts. The addition of figure-hugging denim corsets and peplum belts detracted from more wearable pieces including a sheer tartan dress and romantic high-necked blouse. The dresses constructed from different suiting materials were playful but overwhelmed the body with too much fabric.
The best tailoring award however goes to London College of Fashion graduate KEVIN HO. Form fitting dresses were pieced together like collages that played tricks on the eye. His use of different fabrics including jacquard and mesh, and abstract prints created an eye-popping 3D effect. One of my favourites was a classic long sleeve dress which become fresh and modern thanks to details such as sharp shoulders, a bold red stripe and fluid asymmetrical hem skirt.
Arto Wong from ARTO. has been a name to watch since she won the champion and New Talent Award at YDC 2017 and she proved that she has an eye for colour and print. She experimented with head-to-toe colour – in this case Yves Klein blue – but kept the look interesting with contemporary shapes including paper bag waist trousers and a voluminous gathered top. The prints of the collection were extremely versatile. They looked elegant on a bell-shaped dress, but appeared cool and casual on an asymmetrical top paired with a coral skirt.
While Wong’s collection was decidedly modern, Tak Lee’s collection under Tak L. had a whiff of nostalgia about it. He experimented with techniques such as plant-based block printing, tie dye, and tea-dyeing which added an artisanal touch to his boho dresses. An earthy palette and traditional handmade fabrics such as Lushan silk added to the arts-and-crafts vibe. The fitted jackets were a highlight with contrasting white lapel and frayed hems.
Designers Derek Chan, Jason Lee and Necro Poon offered up some interesting looks for men. For his label DEMO, Chan created a poetic collection inspired by the Cantonese opera “Death of a Princess.” He took feminine fabrics such as tweeds and lace which he transformed into distressed jackets and shorts in faded colours for the modern day dandy.
There was no place for romance in YMDH’s collection. Lee’s man was ready to hit the streets in a playful collection of military-inspired separates including colourful onesies, jackets decorated with safety belt straps and a washed denim jacket with a hood that covered the entire face. Instead of using technical fabrics, the designer opted for natural fibres such as linen and cotton to add a soft touch.
Fashion for many designers is a reflection of what’s happening in society and NECRO POON’s collection referenced the recent protests that happened in the city. The collection was transformed into protective - albeit fashionable – clothing as models took to the runway wearing black masks and other head gear. There was a mix of functional pieces such as raincoats, cargo pants and jackets made from denim and functional tech fabrics.