To most people, suits and shirts belong together, but for professional tailors they are distinctly separate entities. Traditionally, the shirt is considered underwear alongside pyjamas and bathrobes. Celebrated local tailor Ascot Chang is an expert in shirts. Displaying exquisite workmanship, it has garnered a group of loyal customers that includes international stars and political leaders.
Ascot Chang is celebrating its 65th anniversary this year. This family brand, with its dedication to craftsmanship and personalised service, has held its ground amid the global takeover of fast fashion. Menstyle.com considers it one of the world's finest tailors, while the Sydney Morning Herald singled out Ascot Chang as one of the world’s top six high-end bespoke brands.
Business Development Director Justin Chang is the third generation to enter the management of the company. His grandfather, Ascot, left home in Ningbo at 14 for Shanghai to apprentice in shirt making. More than a decade later, the budding entrepreneur moved to Hong Kong and started his own business.
In the beginning, he had to visit Shanghai businessmen at their homes to take orders. His hard work paid off and the first Ascot Chang shop was officially opened in 1953 on Kimberley Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
“There were a lot of suit tailors on Kimberley Road, and almost none made shirts, so we got a lot of referrals. After that, our customer base expanded to include British expats and foreign tourists. Tourists would come down from their cruises to order shirts in different colours by the dozen, which we would finish and deliver in two or three days,” says Chang.
Business thrived. Ten years later, the second Ascot Chang shop opened at the Peninsula Hotel, which is still there today.
As tourists deserted the city following the Hong Kong riots in 1969, Ascot reached out to his customers in the US. He spent three months visiting all the major cities to take orders from customers. As customers were so appreciative of this special service, the company has made overseas trips annually ever since to the US, Europe, Japan and Australia.
The US market has become a significant one for Ascot Chang. In 1986 its first international branch opened on New York’s 57th Street. The company started to offer tailor-made suits in the same year. In 1990, a second US boutique opened in Beverley Hills on the West Coast.
As bespoke tailoring accounts for 80 per cent of its business, it needs to ensure that each customer receives personal attention, says Chang. “A lot of our employees have been working for us for many years, and some were grandpa’s apprentices. So even if customers only visit us once a year, they are served by the same staff. They appreciate this familiar atmosphere,” he notes.
Ascot Chang shops exude an understated elegance, which can be attributed to Justin’s father Tony. “In 2000, we were about to open a shop in IFC and it was necessary to match the mall’s high-end style. It became apparent that we needed to look more like a boutique than a tailors; it’s the only way the brand can continue to develop.”
Everyone has shirts in their wardrobes, but not every shirt is created equal. An Ascot Chang shirt can last for over five years and still look presentable, says Chang. Why? Firstly it’s the fabric. “Ninety per cent of our fabrics have yarn counts of over 100 and come from the best mills in the world. They can retain their shape for years.” There is also quality in details like the stitches, he adds. “We sew 22 stitches per inch compared to 18 at most for ready-to-wear garments so our seams look very smooth and you can hardly notice the stitches.”
The collar is considered the soul of a shirt, says Chang. “The collar should match your face shape. If you have a long face, for example, the flap of your shirt collar should be wider. But if you have a round face, it should not be too wide.” The shape of the collar should be maintained to frame a tie, he adds.
The tailoring should fit just right. Bespoke can take care of any particular issues in the wearer’s figure like uneven shoulders, which is not possible in ready-to-wear. This meticulous approach to detailing partly came about from his Jewish customers, who had a reputation for being extremely demanding.
In addition to creating beautiful bespoke garments, Ascot Chang has partnered with several stores abroad to launch a line catered especially to the younger market. The company also plans to launch an online shop selling ready-to-wear items in the future.
However, bespoke remains the company’s soul, something Chang is keen to bring to a larger audience. “Some people are concerned about bespoke tailoring being outdated. But the truth is we pay attention to fashion and can incorporate certain elements from the latest trends, like the Napoli style in vogue right now. There is so much to appreciate in a bespoke article of clothing, which is made to fit your body only and actually fits even better as time goes on.”
In today’s fashion landscape, it is not easy to hold on to heritage and tradition. This is why Ascot Chang has made it a priority to invest in training and modernised production so that it can continue to offer the same kind of quality and personalised serviced it has over the past 65 years.
