Ahead of this year’s Young Designer’s contest we speak to the president of the Hong Kong & Kowloon Textile Fabrics Wholesalers Association Tony Lit about the significance of fabrics and what designers need to know in order to create a sustainable brand
By Arthur Tam
Textiles and fabrics are more than just the materials used to make a beautiful outfit. The development of textiles is the representation of that moment when humanity became a civilisation. When it dawned on the first man and woman that clothing was essential for their survival. So in essence, a thread of fabric is part of the DNA of civilisation, which subsequently led to the birth of the fashion industry. Doesn't that sound super grand and epic? Well…it is. We don’t have the phrase, ‘the fabric of society’ or the ‘the fabric of time’ for nothing.
Fabrics represent more than just the foundation for a designer to create an outfit. Fabrics reflect different cultures and different time periods. Your average person can easily make distinctions between Indonesian Batik print cloth, Japanese kimono dyed satin-silk blends, American denim, Scottish wool or Chinese embroidered silks. And if there is a dress made out if optic fibres, it would be safe to assume that it was made during the 21st century.
It’s no wonder then, that with all of the overwhelming significance, designers painstakingly go through shop after shop, mill after mill, to search for the right type of material to fit the narrative and designs of their collections and brand. Like the president of the Hong Kong & Kowloon Textile Wholesalers Association Tony Lit always says, ‘If there weren't textile designers there wouldn't be fashion designers. It all starts with the fabric.’ He clearly believes that the egg gave birth to the chicken.
And he’s right to a certain extent. Popular international Hong Kong designer brands like Jourden and Ffixxed Studios have largely built their brands based on the fabrics they use. Season after season Jourden incorporates a luxe, confetti material into its wearable, flirty skirts, crop tops and mascu-feminine jackets. Ffixxed Studios likes to use weaved rag rug materials in its collection to create, organic, cosy, Japanese-esque streetwear. What both of the brands represent is the perfect, harmonious marriage between fabrication and design. They know exactly the type of material they want use, and how they are going to use it to create their designs. It’s no wonder then that they are creating an international buzz and becoming the brands representing Hong Kong fashion.
‘Hong Kong designers definitely do not lack creativity’, says Lit. “Designers in our city are exposed to so many different kinds of influences. What’s important is being able to apply those ideas with a solid background in knowing how to construct clothes.” He explains why: “It’s impossible for young graduates to compete if they don’t have a very strong foundation. It means they have to outsource to someone else to construct their design, which costs money. If anything goes wrong and changes need to make, that costs extra too. Tell me…how can an emerging designer with no capital manage to develop their brand, when they have to outsource at a high cost?” It really isn’t news that being a designer comes with challenges – especially in a city like Hong Kong where creative industries are still being stifled and overlooked. Even when they are being supported, bureaucracy and commercial pursuits always find a way to weasel in and taint the original intent and direction of projects.
However, despite these challenges, Hong Kong’s fashion designers always find a way to persevere – often with a bit of support.
For this year’s Young Designer Contest, Lit has decided to have the HKTWA sponsor the Young Designers’ Contest 2016 with high-quality fabrics for four of the competitions previous participants: Kevin Ho, Aries Sin, Kurt Ho and Derek Chan. Each of the designers consulted with Lit, to choose the most appropriate fabrics to match their design. Lit has been around the textile business for about 38 years and knows a thing or two about keeping up with current trends and sourcing the latest fabrics from manufacturers that also provide to major fashion houses like Chanel and Dolce & Gabbana. He’s been around since the days when Hong Kong’s textile and garment industry was its glorious peak and used to sell freight loads worth of fabric to buyers. 20 years later, though, things have drastically changed, and Hong Kong’s fashion district has been suffering. Lit, however, has been able to stay afloat because of his business acumen and is now focusing his efforts to support Hong Kong's fashion industry in every way he can – starting with young people.
"What we need is really a dedicated fashion district in Hong Kong, where designers, tailors, business developers and small manufacturers can come together and support each other. That would be the dream.”
Designer Kurt Ho agrees and has really taken advantage of this opportunity to work with the HKTFWA. "I was amazed at all the different selections that were available for my choosing. This time, I chose a luxurious, wool/silk blend, suiting material to fit with the theme of my usual work." Ho has always had the keen eye for provocative edgy menswear and this time he's created a double shirt and skirt ensemble using materials from the HKTFA. Very similar to Ho, Derek Chan has also used suiting material, but in a lighter, rich burgundy velvet to capture a luxurious, bon viver attitude with a slouchy shirt and matching trousers. ‘I’m also incorporating lace for eye-catching element,’ he says. “I want to present a mood and style of androgyny. Even a manly man can still needs to have a feminine touch to their heart and soul.” Kevin Ho, on the other hand, chose stretch silk satin to be used throughout his collection but has also chosen wools and acetates for a glamourous long gown look. ‘I’m doing a lingerie-inspired collection this season, so I need a bit of stretch that would help create better fits,’ he says. “The HK Textile Association is the sponsor for the YDC alumni show and they give us full support on fabrics and walked us through the fabric market in Sham Shui Po, introducing us to different suppliers, so that we (HK designers) have a better relationship with them and know all the good places to go. The experience was invaluable." Aries Sin agrees and for her "Inside Out" collection, she chose two specific luxury fabrics from Lit – one of which is a beautiful, white, feminine beaded fabric. "In my collection, I like to mix femininity and masculinity. So I'm going to treat this fabric and give it a masculine touch."
Each of the YDC designers truly exude the qualities that Lit believes Hong Kong designers should have: vision, creativity and most importantly – tailoring skills. At a time when local designers are feeling a new sense of passion and creativity, they can still rely on organisations like the HKTFA and FASHIONALLY to support them. However, to really take Hong Kong to the next level as an international fashion hub, more still needs to be done. As customers, we can stay informed and invest in the designs of our homegrown talent. But that's only one element. What cities like New York, Paris and London have that Hong Kong doesn't at the moment is really a sense of community, heritage and creative direction. Heritage is something we all can build toward the coming years, but a sense of community and direction is something we can strive for now. As Lit said, it's crucial to have a Hong Kong fashion district where each sector of the industry can support and benefit each other. It's the type of camaraderie Hong Kong needs and deserves. Even now internationally educated Hong Kong designers are choosing to come back and set up their base in this city. Why? Because it’s home, but also because there are potential for Hong Kong to get its act together a really champion the innovative ideas of its young people. Designers can create beautiful clothes with ease and a greater sense of pride and the city will gain an invaluable culture export. We all win at the end.
About the arthur:
Born and raised in Los Angeles, Tam moved to Hong Kong to pursue journalism. After a stint with Time Out Hong Kong as Lifestyle Editor for nearly five years, he's cultivated an expansive knowledge on the Fragrant Harbour – especially when it comes to local fashion designers. Tam believes in supporting Hong Kong talent and often wears designs from emerging designers. He is the editor of FashionStatement.Asia and has contributed to publications such as Dazed & Confused and Coconuts HK. For more on his work, check out www.arthurity.com.
